In search of America...

8 December: Arriving in Porvenir, on the Chilean side of the Tierra del Fuego! Quiet crossing of the Magellan Strait from Punta Arenas, with a few albatrosses and petrels to enhance the journey. After an interesting visit to the local museum, we head straight to Bahia Inutil, where there is a tiny king penguins colony.

The entrance is expensive, and the penguins are only visible from quite a distance away but…what a feeling to hear them sing again and watch them parade, sleep or fight.

Originality of the place…here the penguins are cohabiting with North American BEAVERS! We met this one just a bit upstream from where the penguins nest, apparently eating grass on the river bank.

After two days at the colony, we cross the border to the Argentinian Tierra del Fuego. We had first thought of spending the night near Rio Grande but since the area isn’t too inspiring, we drive directly to Tolhuin, a little town with, we have heard, a wonderful campground beautifully located on the Fagnano Lake.

Indeed, the Hain Camping is incredible, built entirely from recycled materials, including the bathroom and the huge playground. Hours of pleasure for the kids and, for the parents…a few black-browed albatrosses flying over the lake!

Unbelievable to see the albatrosses flying over the freshwater lake, together with gulls and a only few hundred meters away from austral parakeets…

Climbing to the Cerro Jeujepen viewpoint, in a beautiful snowy weather.

After 3 days in Tolhuin, we continue the road towards Ushuaia, but offer ourselves a little detour into the Lasifahaj valley and to the estancia Harberton, the first estancia established on the Tierra del Fuego. Here, our first sight of the Beagle Channel, with Puerto Williams lying at the base of the Dientes de Navarino mountain range.

An appealing lake on the way to the estancia…

The estancia is still owned by the great grandson of the founder and the guided tour is full of details and very lively anecdotes. Below a washing machine, in the middle of the shearing barn.

15 December: exactly 9 months after our departure and on a beautiful sunny day, we reach Ushuaia, the end of our road to the south. As a clin d’oeil to Norway, the Hurtigruten is docked in the city for the picture!

Obviously, after a tour of the city, we drive on to the Tierra del Fuego National Park, just a few kilometers away from the center. Quite some wildlife to observe, and some wonderful walks, away from the crowds.

Magellanic woodpecker

Non flying steamer ducks

Black necked swans

The most demanding walk: climbing to the top of the Cerro Guanaco. After 3.5 hours of steep ascent, we reach the top at 970 m. Not that high…but a record of 950 m of climb (and nearly 12 km of walk) for our little hikers. The reward is an incredible view from the top on the Beagle Channel, Ushuaia and the national park.

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